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FRIULMODEL TRACK ASSEMBLY PT 1: Here are the basic elements to assembling Friulmodel's
metal track links using .020 (20 thousandths) brass rod instead of the wire
supplied in the track set. .020 brass rod is available from most general
hobby stores. The supplies shown above are: the model for reference (due to
scale limitations, the link count may be off by a few track links so it is
good to have the semi-completed model/chassis as reference), the correct
Friulmodel set, plenty of brass rod, and some basic hand tools.
Here are the tools I use for this process. From the left: your standard hobby
(X-Acto) knife, mini-drill (pin vise), flush-face cutters (shears), and most
importantly good small pliers. The knife is for clean-up of the flash. The
mini-drill is used to clean the holes out. The cutters are to trim the rod
when done. And the pliers are to hold the rod securely as you push it thru
the holes.
The first step is to pre-drill (or clean up) the holes. Even though I am
showing a half-completed run, the process is the same when starting with the
first link. I highly recommend when first trying this method to pre-drill the
holes. Once you get the hang of the technique you can by-pass this step to
help speed up the process. Sometimes the light tanks with their small links
may still need to be drilled as they are very delicate and damage can result
otherwise if too much pressure is used.
Once both links are
cleaned-up and pre-drilled you can put them together to insert the brass rod.
Next is to grasp the brass rod with the pliers. I like to hold it with just a
little longer rod exposed than needed to go thru the holes of both links.
VERY IMPORANT: hold the rod with the lower edge of the jaws so that you can
apply pressure horizontally thru the holes and not downward. You will bend
the rod otherwise at it hits the links and not the holes. It will still
happen occasionally, but this way keeps that problem from happening too a
minimum. After doing a couple of sets you can almost avoid bending the rod
altogether.
Start by gently putting the brass rod into the first hole of each link. You
feel slight pressure as it begins to go thru the series of holes in both
links. I hold the tracks firmly down with my left hand and nearly lay the
pliers flat on the work surface as I apply the pressure with my right hand.
If the holes are lined up properly the rod will slide thru easily with
minimum fuss. Sometimes they are a little off and it requires a little more pressure,
but use finesse and don't try to manhandle the rod, it will bend. Push until
you feel it stop at the far end of the holes. You will feel the difference as
it does not want to go any further. I add just a slight bit more firm
pressure to push the brass rod into the soft metal of the end of the link
which is sufficient to hold it place. Careful not to push thru the other side
(quite hard to do, but some of you guys/gals might not know your own
strength!) and hit your fingers - it will hurt.
If the links are difficult or you are having a hard time pushing thru all of
the holes, it can help to lift the link along the axis and it will line the
holes up a little better. If that still does not work, re-drill the holes and
try again or use a new link. Friulmodel supplies plenty of spares so don't be
afraid to grab a fresh one.
Once the rod has been set in place (you can verify this by visually
inspecting the gaps between the holes and actually see the brass rod in
place), use your flush-face cutters and clip off the excess rod. Hold onto
both ends as it will fly away across the room in utter frustration and
descriptive expletives. The final step is to take the end of the pliers and
gently push the rod in again to make sure it is set in place. Viola!! Once
you get the hang of it, a complete set for a medium size tank will take about
2-3 hours.
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